The Expert at the Card Table
  • Artifice Ruse and Subterfuge at the Card Table
  • Preface
  • Introduction
  • Card Table Artifice
    • Professional Secrets
    • Hold Outs
    • Prepared Cards
    • Confederacy
    • Two Methods of Shuffling
    • Primary Accomplishments
    • Possibilities of the "Blind"
    • Uniformity of Action
    • Deportment
    • Display of Ability
    • Greatest Single Accomplishment
    • Effect of Suspicion
    • Acquiring the Art
    • Importance of Details
    • Technical Terms
    • Erdnase System for Blind Shuffles
      • Position for Shuffle
      • Blind Shuffles
      • I. To Retain Top Stock
      • II.To Retain Top Stock and Shuffle Whole Deck
      • III. To Retain the Bottom Stock and Shuffle Whole Deck
    • Erdnase System of Blind Riffles and Cuts
      • Blind Riffles
        • I. To Retain the Top Stock
        • II. To Retain the Bottom Stock
      • Blind Cuts
        • I. To Retain Bottom Stock. Top Losing One Card
        • II. To Retain the Complete Stock
        • III. To Retain the Top Stock
        • IV. To Retain the Bottom Stock
      • Combination Riffle and Cuts
        • V. To Retain Bottom Stock. Riffle II and Cut IV
      • Fancy Blind Cuts
        • I. To Retain the Complete Stock
        • II. To Retain the Complete Stock
    • One-Handed Fancy True Cut
    • To Indicate the Location for the Cut
      • I. This is located by the Crimp
      • II. This is located by the jog
      • III. This is located by the crimp
      • IV. This is located by the jog
    • Bottom Dealing
      • Top and Bottom Dealing with One Hand
    • Second Dealing
    • Ordinary Methods of Stocking, Locating and Securing
    • Stock Shuffle
    • Erdnase System of Stock Shuffling
      • Two-Card Stock
      • Three-Card Stock
      • Four-Card Stock
      • Five-Card Stock
      • Twelve-Card Stock
      • Euchre Stock
      • Euchre Stock
    • The Erdnase System of Cull Shuffling
      • To Cull Two Cards, Numbers 8, 4
      • To Cull Three Cards, Numbers 7, 5, 9
      • To Cull Four Cards, Numbers 3, 6, 2, 5
      • To Cull Nine Cards, Numbers 5, 1, 1, 1, 3, 1, 1, 7, 1
    • The Erdnase System of Palming
      • Top Palm. First Method
      • Top Palm. Second Method
      • Bottom Palm. First Method
      • Bottom Palm. Second Method
      • Bottom Palm When Cards are Riffled
    • To Maintain the Bottom Palm while Dealing
    • To Hold the Location of Cut while Dealing
    • Shifts
      • Two-Handed Shift
      • The Erdnase Shift. One Hand
      • Erdnase Shift. Two Hands
    • To Ascertain the Top Cards while Riffling and Reserve Them at Bottom
    • Mode of Holding the Hand
    • Skinning the Hand
    • The Player Without an Ally
      • Dealing Without the Cut
      • Replacing the Cut as Before
      • Holding Out for the Cut
      • Shifting the Cut
      • Dealing Too Many
      • Crimping for the Cut
      • Replacing Palm When Cutting
      • The Short Deck
    • Three Card Monte
      • Mexican Three Card Monte
  • Legerdemain
    • Shifts
      • Single Handed Shift
      • The Longitudinal Shift
      • The Open Shift
      • The S.W.E. Shift
      • The Diagonal Palm-Shift
    • The Blind Shuffle for Securing Selected Card
    • Forcing
    • Palming
      • The Back Palm
    • Changes
      • The Top Change
      • The Bottom Change
      • The Palm Change
      • The Double-Palm Change
    • Transformations. Two Hands
      • First Method
      • Second Method
      • Third Method
      • Fourth Method
      • Fifth Method
      • Sixth Method
    • Transformations. One Hand
      • First Method
      • Second Method
    • Blind Shuffles, Retaining Entire Order
      • First Method
      • Second Method
      • Third Method
      • Fourth Method
      • Fifth Method
    • Methods for Determining a Card Thought of
      • A
      • B
      • C
      • D
    • To Get Sight of Selected Card
    • The Slide
    • Favorite Sleights for Terminating Tricks
      • Catching Two Cards at Fingertips
      • Leaving Selected Card in Hand of Spectator
      • The Revolution
      • Cards Raising from the Hand
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  1. Card Table Artifice

Prepared Cards

The subject of prepared cards is almost as foreign to the main purpose of this work as the preceding one of "hold outs," but a cursory review of the commoner kinds and their uses may not be out of place.

Marked cards, generally known as "readers," can be distinguished by the backs as readily as by the faces when the key is known. Printed cards are manufactured, but these are rarely used by professionals. The designs are not the same as those now of standard make, and consequently would be difficult to introduce. The usual plan is to mark the standard decks by hand. For the benefit of the unenlightened or curious reader we shall describe the process. It is not at all difficult, and a deck can be "doctored" in an hour or so.

Nearly all standard cards are red or blue. Marking inks absolutely indistinguishable from the printer's ink can be obtained from any of the dealers. Cards of intricate design are best adapted for the purpose. Each card is marked at both ends, so as to be read in any position. The peculiarity of the figures or design across the end is first closely considered, and twelve fairly distinct points, or dots or dashes, are noted and located. Then the four Aces are laid out, and with a fine pen the first point located is shortened barely enough to notice. The point is white and the background red or blue, the color of the ink used; and the slightest shortening of a single point or the obliteration of a single dot on a card, is undetectable unless it is known.

The four Aces are treated in this manner, then turned end for end, and the operation repeated. Then the Kings are doctored, the second point located being shortened in this instance. Then the four Queens at the third point, and so on throughout the deck for the twelve values; the absence of any mark denoting the Deuce. Now the suits are marked. Three additional points are located, possibly close to one corner. The first point marked say for Diamonds, the second for Clubs, third for Hearts and Spades left natural. Thus the operator at a glance, by noting the location of the two "blockouts," can instantly name the cards as they are dealt.

Combination systems lessen the number of points to be located. The design of the particular deck will suggest whether a dot, line, or blockout, would be least noticeable. It is seldom that two operators work alike. Cleverly done, it is almost impossible to detect, and unless suspicion is aroused quite so. Most of the supply houses keep a skilled operator constantly employed, and will mark any deck to order for about one dollar.

Some players make a practice of marking cards during the process of the game. The most desirable cards are creased or indented at certain locations as they happen to come into the player's possession, with the finger or thumb nail, which is kept pointed for the purpose; and in the course of an hour the principal cards can be readily distinguished. Another plan is to darken the edges with different prepared inks that are conveniently adjusted in pads. These manœuvres, while making nothing sure in a given instance, always net the operator a favorable percentage in the long run.

Prepared cards known as "Strippers" are much used by certain players. The desired cards are placed aside and the rest of the cards trimmed slightly along the sides; then the briefs are trimmed from nothing at middle of sides to the width of the cut deck at ends. This leaves a slight hump at sides of the desired cards when shuffled in the deck, and they can be drawn out at will and placed on top or bottom at option. The trimming is done with machines made for the purpose, and the cutting leaves the edges and the corners as smooth as glass.

There are many other methods of doctoring cards to meet the requirements of particular games, and the skill, or rather want of it, of the operator. By roughening the faces of some of the cards they will hold together, and are more easily retained while shuffling. Faro cards, used in connection with a certain form of "brace" box, are treated in this manner. In the construction of the various kinds of control boxes the acme of ingenuity and mechanical skill has been reached, and most extravagant prices are demanded and paid, for these innocent-appearing little silver-plated articles. Strippers may be used in Faro with little fear of detection, as the cards are never shuffled or cut by the players. A "crooked" box and a clever dealer can give the house a percentage that would impoverish a prince. Millions of dollars are wagered annually at Faro in this country. It is the most fascinating of layout games. However, we have reason to believe it is generally dealt on the square in gambling rooms that are run openly. The bank's percentage is satisfactory to the proprietors.

The "Cold Deck" is a pre-arranged pack that is introduced at an opportune moment. The cards are not marked, but two or more hands are set up ready for dealing. The name is probably derived from the fact that the deck must await its opportunity long enough to contract a chill in the interim. Little skill is required in making the exchange. It is almost invariably done quite openly, and in company where the attendants and players are in collusion. In most gaming rooms the decks are exchanged every hour or less. Sometimes the players will call for a new deck, but usually the exchange is made at the instance of the management. When the "cold deck" is sprung a "blind" shuffle is made by the dealer, a "blind" cut by an ally, and the hands fall in the desired order. Of course an exchange may be made by sleight-of-hand, but the player who can accomplish this feat successfully is generally well versed in the higher orders of card-table artifice, and will dispense with such makeshifts as "cold decks" or any kind of prepared cards.

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